Saturday, June 20, 2009

Promising to update is almost as good as actually updating, right?

So, at long last, UPDATES! (sorry to all of you who were waiting with bated breath for my exalted words)

I'm going to split this into several posts with different subject matter, since there's so much to talk about!

Upcoming posts will concern:
  • Brussels
  • the Opera Garnier (Proust ballet)
  • the Pantheon
  • Sacre Coeur
  • the Moulin Rouge
  • trip to the Loire Valley/Tours
  • Galeries Lafayette
  • Pere Lachaise cemetery
  • fabulous terrace potluck dinner
  • Centre Pompidou
  • my solo adventure to a restaurant around Montparnasse and then to the Musee d'Orsay!

I swear. These upcoming posts WILL HAPPEN.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Whoever heard of an "AZERTY" keyboard?

We went to the Palais de Versailles Tuesday afternoon with the group after our Sorbonne class (it's basically the Disneyland of European tourism--no, the actual Disney Paris park is probably NOT as crowded). It's amazing how easy it is to get around everywhere here--we just hopped on an RER train for 20 minutes and were in Versailles before we knew it.

Versailles is extremely crowded, and you'll hear approximately 8349028402 languages at once. The majestic sights at the chateau's entrance include a spectacular ornamental gilded fence, Asian tourists and 50 tour buses. Inside, it's even more crowded. We waited in line for a while to receive some headphones for our recorded guided tour of the palace (I chickened out and got an English narrator instead of French--plus facile! Plus, the British accent was calming in such chaos).

Versailles basically consists of room after room of 17th-century paintings of important (i.e. pretentious) people and Roman gods, along with gilded everything. The ceilings, walls, fireplaces, windows, doors--EVERYTHING is gold. The tour consists of approximately 20 rooms of this (each one appearing mostly the same as the last but used for a different purpose--a room for war, a room for peace, a room for signing documents, a room where the king waited for people to ask him for favors, etc.). Even the calm English tour guide sounded a little sick of the procession toward the end: "Here is another room, quite similar to the last, where the queen would do something quite similar to what she did back there..."

The Hall of Mirrors IS pretty fabulous, although I felt bad for the 5-year-old French schoolchildren touring the place--just bring the poor kids to the zoo (if it was hard for ME to engage myself in that place, I can't imagine what it must have been like for them)!

There was also a gallery of paintings of wars and battles. The curators had juxtapositioned these with photos from modern wars, which was kind of interesting. I got scolded for taking pictures.

By the time we finished the indoor tour, I was wandering around with only one other guy from my program. The place is so crowded it would have been impossible for us all to stay together. We wandered out to the gardens, which are expansive and amazing--they mainly consist of fountains and carefully crafted shrubbery, but I assure you, they're pretty badass.

Somehow we ran into several other people from Carolina (this was seriously a miracle), and we all walked through the gardens together. Then we got some gelato and sat on the side of a pond, watching people row around it in cute little boats. I really wanted to rent one because that would have been adorable, but we were getting tired and sunburned and wanted to head back to Paris.

The next morning we had class again at the Sorbonne, which is really nice. I feel like I'm in the perfect level--I've seen all the grammar we're studying, but it's good to have a refresher; I haven't taken a language class in a long time in favor of French lit. Also the professor makes us feel comfortable enough to ask questions. I'll have to give a 15-minute presentation on something French at some point during the semester; I wanted to do Simone de Beauvoir (obvi), but another girl snatched her up first, so now I think I'll present on orientalism in 19th-century French art and literature & its connection to the objectification of women. Or something like that.

Arden and I took a leisurely walk in the afternoon since we didn't have class. We went to the Gibert Joseph (basically like a Barnes & Noble, except books are way cheap here!!) and bought some contemporary French novels just for pleasure reading. Then we had our first Monoprix experience (it's a French department store kind of like Target; we had an epic search for face wash and ultimately had to just ask an employee where to find it--Neutrogena = jackpot!). We made our way down to the Seine; I bought a little present for ma mere at one of the stalls along the river. We sat for a while on one of Paris's many bridges and then relaxed in the Tuileries gardens before we made our way back to the Foyer.

This lovely afternoon was followed by our ridiculous reading assignment--over 100 pages of scholarly evaluations of French court culture circa 1680, followed by the world's first super hero narrative (some guy who "rescued" people from their moral inadequacies). There were also some letters by Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson about their perceptions of the French court, which were interesting.

Today we had French class again (shocking!). Afterward we went to the Resto for lunch with Cieran, this Irish guy we met in class. He's a music major from Dublin and has a fabulous accent. It was really funny to compare cultures (and easy since we all speak English)--we chatted about the metric system, big cities, beer, etc. It was a nice time.

Came back to the Foyer, finished my reading/kind of took a nap, and went to culture class, which was long. It's not super boring, but three hours a day is enough for any subject.

We went to a free concert at the Sorbonne this evening. It was a pretty unique genre--Nordic music played by a French viola/classical accordion duo. Only like 10 people showed up aside from us, which was funny. The accordionist was about our age and super gorgeous; I was kind of in love. The group's composer was there as well. He was a tall Finnish guy with long, stringy blond hair that was parted in the center and went all the way to his waist. When he spoke (in English), his Finnish accent made him sound like a robot. I think Scandinavian accents might just do that to you.

We had dinner at a Chinese restaurant on the way home. I ordered chop suey chicken, which I didn't realize was basically a salad with pulled-apart chicken in it...disappointing. Also they charged us 5 euro for a side of fried rice.

Tomorrow we're heading to the Louvre after class--it's free for students from 6-10 on Friday nights (and seeing as we have no social life of which to speak, we have nothing better to do than look at art all evening; I'm psyched!). Saturday morning our train leaves for Brussels at 6:55 a.m., and we're returning to Paris at 11:35 p.m. Sunday evening. It should be a nice trip; our hostel (http://www.chab.be/) & train tickets cost a grand total of only $130 American! We're planning to see the Grand Place, the Manneken de Pis and the Atomium, as well as eat lots of chocolate and waffles and moules-frites (yeah, I'm going to be brave and try the mussels; they're a specialty). We'll probably also have a few Stella Artois ;)

By the way, the Irish guy didn't know the word for "pancakes." Europeans are just so...foreign.

Or maybe I am.

Monday, June 1, 2009

Basketball is apparently a uniquely American sport.

Today classes began, which was kind of unfortunate. There's so much to see and do in Paris that I feel like I won't have nearly enough time to get everywhere I need to--four weeks will only get me acquainted with Paris; I can't imagine how I'll feel spending only a few days in each city when I'm traveling afterward!

I got placed in the advanced level, which is the second highest. That was at first an unwelcome surprise (I assumed I'd be in intermediate) because advanced isn't just grammar but also French literature, and I feel like I need to practice my usage more than I need to explicate Baudelaire. They handed us a hefty "anthologie" of excerpts from works by French authors, but I'm sure we won't get through much of it in only four weeks.

My class is pretty amazing--the professor is a really nice French man who makes you feel at ease, and the students come from everywhere: China, Saudi Arabia, Brazil, Britain, Vietnam, etc. (although most are American, and most are other people from the UNC program). It's interesting that our only truly common language is French.

At the beginning of class we had to introduce ourselves, speaking for about a minute or two. I told everyone my name, country of origin, university (although many of the students in the class are much older than we are & are taking the course without any affiliation with another university) and concentrations of study. Then, because of my fierce Tarheel pride, I felt compelled to inform everyone that our fabulous university won the national championship "pour le basket" this year (amidst some mild cheering from my UNC compatriots). The professor first corrected my incorrect usage of the word "tournament" (should be "tournoi") and then laughed. "You are so American! That is so 'typique'!" he said.

Clearly only Americans get excited about an orange ball, two hoops and Psycho-T.

We completed a dictee at the end of class, which is a classic French assignment in which the professor reads a passage and you have to write down what he says. It's difficult because you have to understand his words vocabulary-wise as well as get the grammar right (especially conjugations). This one wasn't too difficult, though; I only made a few mistakes.

We're not sure if we have homework for tomorrow because we can't quite understand EVERYTHING the professor says :)

We tried to go to the Resto-U for lunch, but it was closed because apparently today is a national holiday, Pentecost (Pentecote). Instead we went to a grocery store and stocked up on some cheaper things to eat (I've probably mentioned that food is ridiculously expensive here on its own; plus the dollar flat-out sucks). I bought a lot of cheese, some oranges, a heat-up pizza (which was far more delicious than frozen American kinds and only cost like 1,50 euro), some peanuts to snack on, yogurt, etc. I got a ton of groceries for like 18 euro. In the U.S. I probably would have spent like $35 on the same amount of food, which was nice.

We all ate our homemade lunches out on the terrace, and I got more sunburned.

We had Costello's first class today, which is THREE HOURS LONG. Luckily it was pretty interesting; we talked about philosophy, and I was into it until I lost interest about 2.25 hours into the class. Pretty good attention span, I'd say.

Tomorrow instead of class we're heading to Versailles for the afternoon, which should be amazing.

Went shopping this evening with a few of the other girls. We went to H&M, Zara (adorable clothes but a little too expensive..especially with the shitty exchange rate), and a few other stores. I bought a cute slouchy blue dress at a store called Stick; it was only 19 euro. It kinda sucks to think uber-carefully about every single purchase, down to the 3-euro panini for lunch, but the exchange rate is so bad and it's unbelievable how EXPENSIVE everything is here. I need to do some budgeting so I don't unknowingly blow through my money--today I took 250 euro out of the ATM, looked online and found that 250 euro = $350 American. Crazy. Thanks for making me super poor by Parisian standards, failing American economy.

Trying to go to Brussels this weekend with Arden! We just need to make sure we can secure a cheap train ride and a hostel; I looked up some trains online for a Friday-Sunday trip but found that the tickets were like $225 each; however, if we leave early Saturday morning it'll be cheaper (like $140), and then we'd pay for only one night in the hostel. Plus, the train ride's only like an hour and a half long--oh, Europe & your tiny countries; you are so convenient.

Bonsoir!